When I travel, I love to visit museums, architectural edifices (Gaudi), and archeological sites such as Petra. But popular restaurants at a destination are not high on my list of must-try travel experiences.
That’s why a journey through the restaurant scene in Dallas, a destination just 25 miles south of where I live, was such a delicious surprise. Not only has Dallas experienced an architectural rebirth, but the proliferation of celebrity chefs has thrust the city into the national culinary spotlight.
Although I must admit that I’m not a “food critic,” nor do I take food reviews as gospel, I let my sense of taste at these diverse restaurants help me draw my own conclusions. After all, my view of food is the same as it is for wine; let your palate guide you.
Stephan Pyles
I was one of several writers who dined at four outstanding Dallas restaurants. Our first stop was Stephan Pyles in the Dallas Arts District. Our three-course dinner consisted of a Tamale Tart, Cowboy Ribeye, and an array of creative and delectable desserts.
Chef Stephan Pyles is one of the founders of Southwestern cuisine. So a lot of his creations have Tex- Mex, Mexican, and other ethnic ingredients. The cornmeal tamale tart had a doughy consistency and filled with garlic custard. It was then topped with crab, smoked tomato sauce and Nova Scotia Halibut.
The inventive first course was delectable, especially paired with a 2012 Viognier, a light, crisp white Texas wine from award-winning Pedernales Cellars. Pyles is so proud of his home state that he stocks mainly Texas wines at his many restaurants, including the kitchy, Western-style Stampede 66.
Our two-tiered main course consisted of a USDA prime, bone-in Cowboy Ribeye with pinto-crimini mushroom ragout paired and red chili onion rings. It was outstanding and not spicy at all. Steak in any form does not entice me. But this ribeye was a juicy, melt-in-your mouth, cut above.
Tier two was a flash-seared pork belly confit called “Dia de los Puercos,” meaning “Day of the Pigs.” This dish was paired with vanilla-scented potatoes, chicharon (pork rinds) crispy pig ears, pork rillettes and Spain’s celebrated Jamon Serrano.
This entrée was paired with a red 2011 Malbec from award-winning Becker Vineyards in the popular Texas Hill Country. The pairing was perfect, and I savored every bite. On the nose, the bold, red wine reflected hints of blackberries, smoke and tobacco.
Desserts were to die for. Black Forest Clafoutis was chocolate custard with tequila citrus and cherries, followed by lemon pudding cake with candied almonds and strawberry sorbet. The final dessert was a mix of Angel and Devil’s food cake topped with peanut butter mousse, milk chocolate and raspberry sorbet. The lavish desserts made my group swoon with delight.
Stephan Pyles
1807 Ross Ave
Dallas, TX 75201
(214) 580-7000
Chino Chinatown
The recently opened Chino Chinatown is causing a stir in Trinity Groves, a revitalized hot spot in west Dallas. The restaurant is a joint venture between Asian chef Uno Immanivong of “The Taste” TV show fame, and Mexican businessman Adrian Verdin.
First off, most Americans don’t know that Mexico has its own share of Chinese immigrants. Not only that, so does Central and South America. Upon arrival, immigrants retain their traditional foods but soon begin using local ingredients. That’s how trendy Latin Fusion foods were born.
Chino Chinatown provided my group with a delicious array of their most popular entrees. I liked the duck fat fried yucca (pronounced U-CA) in Spanish-speaking countries. Yucca bites have a potato consistency and taste like French fries. A delicious take on the familiar Latin street vendor was the elote (corn on the cob) with bone marrow aioli, cilantro and cortijo.
Vietnamese Pho married to Mexican Pozole, hominy and shredded, braised oxtail, was a real surprise. Nearly all Asian menu items had a distinctive Latin twist. Plate sharing was imperative due to the large portions. Group reaction was positive, and I relished the palate-pleasing experience.
Chino Chinatown
3011 Gulden Lane Ste 110
Dallas, TX 75212
Sammy’s Texas Bar-B-Q
The next day, we had lunch at Sammy’s Texas Bar-B-Q. This time my group was joined by New York writer John Mariani of Esquire magazine, Michael Green, formerly with Gourmet magazine, and Mr. Manners, of television’s Today show fame.
Tucked in behind the Dallas Federal Building, this barbecue joint felt like a small-town Texas café. The young owner, Marshall Prichard, showed us to our table, which had a blue-and-white checkered tablecloth. Regular customers just walk up to a counter to order barbecue and sides.
One of the first things I noticed was the large roll of paper towels on the table. Prichard said we might get soiled, so he sent for bibs. At first, we squirmed about donning bibs. But we were told rustling up some grub required serious Texas protocol, so the group and I relented.
Photo courtesy of V. Carbo
We understood the wisdom of the bibs when plate after plate of sliced beef brisket, ribs, chopped beef, smoked turkey, chicken and pork loin arrived at our table. The meats were tender, delicious and smoked to perfection.
The accompanying barbecue sauce was heavenly. Turns out Prichard, a handsome dude, uses his mother’s secret recipe for barbecue sauce on all the meats. He explained how the meats are marinated, smoked and lovingly cooked.
Although I’m not a carnivore, I loved the smoky, sliced beef brisket. It was tender and juicy. I also tasted some smoked sausage. The bibs finally came into play when I tried the ribs. The Texas-sized ribs were moist, messy and finger-licking good.
A group favorite was Aunt Glenda’s cheesy potato casserole, infused with veggies. Dallas was once known for unique food items such as fried okra. Well, at Sammy’s, it’s deep fried to a crunchy, tasty consistency. We topped the visit off with an incredible slice of homemade pecan pie.
Sammy’s Texas Bar-B-Q
2126 Leonard St
Dallas, TX 75201
(214) 880-9064
Campuzano’s Mexican Food
Only two of us were available for lunch at Campuzano’s Mexican Food restaurant the third and final day of our culinary journey through Dallas. But for those of us who love this type of food, it was worth the trip. This Tex-Mex restaurant opened last year to rave reviews.
That’s pretty amazing, since Dallas is a Tex-Mex mecca. The restaurant was founded in 1999 in Midlothian by Luis Campuzano, a native of Mexico. He recently sold his interest to his friend, Brian Harding. Now, the Dallas-based Campuzanos is the fourth Texas location.
Starters began with complimentary, homemade corn tortilla chips and three distinct dipping salsas. My favorite was the avocado salsa, which was not spicy but delicious. I saw my favorite on the menu: beef enchiladas. But I sampled chicken enchiladas, too. Beef and chicken were topped with cheese. Our waiter brought us a variety of dishes to savor and share.
The World Famous Campuzano Nachos were also good and plentiful. But a taste of Mexican guiso brought tears to my eyes. The beef plate in guiso sauce was delicious, but I failed to see the word “diablo” on the menu. I forgot that with Tex-Mex and Mexican food, the devil is in the detail. Diablo means your tongue is about to be set afire.
Staffers rushed over with a glass of water, which I downed instantly to the gratitude of my scorched tongue. Harding, the young proprietor, said the guiso (to sauté) is his favorite dish but you have to “beware” of the habanero chilies.
Non-Texans at my table sympathized with me. But a Texas native looked indignantly at me and proclaimed: “This is Tex-Mex, and here in Texas we like it hot!”
Campuzano’s Mexican Food
2618 Oak Lawn
Dallas, TX 75219
(214) 526-0100
Rosie Carbo is the Lifestyles Editor for Wandering Educators, and is a former newspaper reporter whose work has appeared in newspapers and magazines nationwide. Some of those publications include People magazine, The Dallas Morning News, The Houston Chronicle and San Antonio Express-News. Some of her features were redistributed by The Associated Press early in her career as an award-winning Texas journalist.
Photos:
Stephan Pyles photos courtesy of V. Carbo
Chino Chinatown photos courtesy of V. Carbo
Sammy's Texas BBQ photos courtesy of Sammy's Texas BBQ, except where noted
Campuzano's Mexican food photos courtesy of Campuzano's Mexican Food